LENNDEVOURS

Quick Q&A with Anthony Nappa, Winemaker, Shinn Estate Vineyards

Anthony Nappa (left), winemaker at Shinn Estate Vineyards, on the 2008 crush pad.

For the first Q&A of 2009, we pose our standard questions to Anthony Nappa, winemaker at Shinn Estate Vineyards in Mattituck, NY. Anthony is still a relative newcomer to the region and is one of the East Coast's youngest winemakers. 

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
Outside of Boone’s Farms when I was young, I didn’t drink much wine except on holidays with the family, mostly Italian wine or homebrew. Asti Spumante at Christmas dinner or Thanksgiving is still a favorite.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
My father grew up on a vineyard outside of Avellino, Italy, so I guess it may be in the blood. I have always had a very acute sense of smell and as a child I would always smell everything, in nature or my food before I ate it. A defining moment may have been when I was eighteen backpacking around the world drinking a lot of wine along the way. I found myself in a winery in Tasmania, Australia. Tasting through some wines with the winemaker, whom challenged me to identify specific aromas, I was able to impress him. He pulled out a bottle of port which he had made an addition to at crushing which nobody could ever identify. It took me a minute but I got it, it was molasses.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
Every wine I have made has special significance to me. They are all my children and unique. This is why wine is so interesting to work with. Every wine is like a fingerprint, an individual solution made up of varying quantities of thousands of organic compounds. If you break it down to its individual components, with this many variables, literally no two wines that have ever been made are exactly the same.

Currently I have been specifically impressed with our Malbec at Shinn. Its concentration and complexity along with varietal character have given me the impression that Malbec can be a great wine for Long Island. Growers have said it is difficult to grow here, and winemakers know it’s hard to make, as it tends to go stinky in ferment, but that is all part of the fun. We will be bottling a varietal Malbec at Shinn starting with the 2007 vintage.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Long Island wine community?
I am surprised by how quickly our local industry has received incredible respect and international acclaim in a very competitive marketplace. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a break in our glass ceiling, an expansion of our industry and even more justly deserved recognition for the Long Island wines, particularly with the release of the great 2007 vintage.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I do drink a lot of beer. Everyone knows it takes a lot of beer to make great wine. For the most part I have given up liquor altogether. I will have the occasional gin and tonic in the summer or a Dark and Stormy when sailing.

Recently, I have been drinking a lot of local wines trying to get a better understanding of the region and terroir. Otherwise I have been on a Viognier and Nebbiolo kick.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
I always enjoy wine for what it is, but the ‘classic’ American grape, zinfandel, I just can’t get my head around.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
A bottle of wine is a photograph of a specific time and place, far off, or right in your own back yard. When you open a bottle of wine you travel through history and around the world. With all five senses you can visit a place, Smell its terroir and climate, Taste its moment in time, and Feel its culture, being the style it was made in.

This experience shared with friends or family, at home or abroad, with food or without, is always an ultimate experience.

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Dry Riesling

Of all the Finger Lakes wines that I review every year, those from Dr. Konstantin Frank are among my favorites. Why? Well, for one, the whites are  consistently good, especially the aromatic whit varieties like riesling and Gewürztraminer. For another, these are often the only quality New York wines that my friends and family back in Pittsburgh have any chance of seeing in their local, state-run liquor stores.

Much like the other wine regions of New York, the Finger Lakes enjoyed a long, hot growing season in 2007 and that is apparent in many of the wines I've tasted from the vintage, in both good and bad ways. The good comes through in ripe flavors (in both reds and whites). The bad? Well, some whites have lacked that electric acidity that makes the region's riesling so enchanting.

This Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Dry Riesling ($18) almost doesn't seem like it's from 2007. The nose, rather than being overtly fruity, is dominated by summery floral aromas with other scents of lime zest, minerals, ginger and something almost almond-like.

Light bodied, clean and fresh, the palate features fresh lime and mineral flavors with crisp pear in the background. Despite its youth, this wine even shows a bit of that classic petrol leading into a lengthy finish of citrus, apple and minerals. The acidity isn't quite where it might be in cooler years, but there is enough to keep it lively.

This isn't a riesling for everyone. There are plenty of people who prefer more luscious fruit. More pear or even peach. But for me, this is a terrific example of Finger Lakes riesling.

Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $18
Rating:  3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings) 

News Clips about Christian Wolffer and His Passing

The Wolffer family is expected to give a brief statement today during which we'll hopefully learn about any memorial services here on Long Island.

In the mean time, Christian Wolffer's death has been covered extensively in media outlets throughout the U.S. and beyond and I thought you might appreciate a few links to the stories:

• Vineyard owner Christian Wolffer killed by boat (Newsday)
• Hamptons Wine Mogul Killed (NY Post)
• Models Swim to Try to Save Hamptons Mogul (NY Post)
• German-born US winery owner dies in Brazil in apparent boating accident (LA Times)
• Brazilian model tries to save wine mogul (Daily Telegraph)
• Christian Wolffer, 70 (The Mercury News)
• Brazilian police detain suspect in Wolffer's death (SF Chronicle)
  

This is by no means an exhaustive list. It's just a few that I came across over the weekend.

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Reserve Gewurztraminer

Too often the descriptor "food wine" is used in a negative way, used to describe wines that aren't all that pleasing on their own. This is, of course, preposterous, and is just a way for writers to soften the blow when writing reviews of mediocre wines.

Wine is meant to be enjoyed with food. At least it should be. Saying that a wine needs food, should be a given.

This Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Gewuztraminer Reserve ($25) doesn't need food, but it sure does shine with it (or at least it did with the green Thai curry chicken and zucchini I made over the holidays.

At first, the nose is a bit austere, but as it warmed just a bit out of the fridge classic aromas of rose petals reach up out of the glass, along with gingery spice and sweet tropical fruit notes.

While medium-full bodied and decidedly on the off-dry side, this wine is balanced by terrific acidity (that may or may not have been added by the winemaker). The fruit is luscious with grapefruit, pineapple and lychee flavors filling the mouth. The finish is medium-long with a clean, minerally note that that I really enjoyed.

I tend to prefer drier Gewürztraminer, but after a bite of that spicy curry, the residual sugar tamed the flames and, even if it's a bit of a wine pairing cliche, I was reminded why this grape works so well with Thai cuisine.

So yes, this is a "food wine" in my book, but that doesn't mean it's not satisfying on its own.

Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
Price: $25
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings)

Winter in Long Island Wine Country

Wolffer Estate 2005 Caya Cabernet Franc

Wolffer Estate's winemaker, Roman Roth, made some delicious and unique wines to commemorate the winery's 20th anniversary, and this wine the Wolffer Estate 2005 "Caya" Cabernet Franc ($40) is one of them (even if I liked the 04 a bit better). The commemorative wines are all named for horses in the Wolffer Stables and this one bears the name of Caya, a 16- year old Hanoverian Warmblood and a Grand Prix winner.

This blend of 86% cabernet franc and 14% merlot shows ripe, intense blackberry and cassis fruit aromas on the nose, which are accented by vanilla, toasty oak and some dried plum layered beneath.

Though perhaps a little less intense than the nose, the medium-bodied palate presents ripe black fruit flavors -- blackberry and black raspberry -- with a vein of toasty oak running through. There is good structure here with ripe, well-integrated tannins and some acidity (which would make this a good choice with food). There is an earthy, gravelly note that lingers on the long finish.

On day two, a bit of spice started to peek through on both the nose and palate. I think that this wine will improve in bottle for at least 3-5 years.

It doesn't take long to find several different style of cab franc being made on Long Island. This one is true to Wolffer's long-standing style, which is decidedly more Bordeaux than Loire.

Grape(s): 86% cabernet franc, 14% merlot
Producer: Wolffer Estate
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
Price: $40
Rating:    (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings) 

In Memorium: Christian Wolffer, Owner, Wolffer Estate

Some sad news has hit the Long Island wine community today in the form of a report that Christian Wolffer, entrepreneur and founder/owner of Wolffer Estate has died in a boating accident in Brazil.

I haven't heard any details beyond that yet, but this is obviously a terribly sad day for the Long Island wine community. As Charles Massoud, co-owner of Paumanok Vineyards (who emailed me about Wolffer's passing) said "Christian was one of our early wave wine producers who has committed himself to quality and excellence. And I think he has

accomplished what he set out to do, with Roman's and Richie's help. He will be missed."

As more information becomes available, I'll pass it along. In the meantime, our thoughts and prayers go out to the extended Wolffer family.

Update: Jared over at Vine Views found some local news coverage in Portuguese and here is a (very) rough translation into English via Google

Merliance 2005 Merlot

Merliance is a wine co-produced by the members of the Long Island Merlot Alliance: Raphael, Pellegrini Vineyards, Sherwood House Vineyards, Shinn Estate Vineyards and Wolffer Estate Vineyards.

This is only the second vintage of Merliance, but each year, the member wineries choose two barrels from their own cellars that they feel best represent their own individual style as well as Long Island’s unique terroir.

For those keeping score at home, that's ten barrels of 100% merlot from five wineries with five winemakers with five differing styles. Under those conditions, crafting a wine that not only retains true Long Island character isn't easy, but I think they did a find job with this merlot.

Where the 2004 Merliance was elegant, almost delicate in some ways, this wine is much more assertive. The nose shows off the ripeness of the vintage intense with black cherry and black raspberry aromas with hints of tobacco, fresh herbs and brown sugar.

The medium-full bodied palate is a bit taut at first, but with some time to breath, beautiful ripe black fruit flavors emerge accented by just-snipped mint, brown sugar and dark chocolate. Ripe, smooth tannins provide good structure and hint at some short-term cellar-worthiness. The finish is dry and medium long with light fruit and herb flavors.

It'd be a better value at $25, but a significant portion of the profits from this wine go to LIMA's research, so I think it's well worth the extra $10.

Producer: Long Island Merlot Alliance
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $35
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings)

The LENNDEVOURS 2008 Wines of the Year

By Lenn Thompson, Founder and Editor

This is a post that I look forward to writing every year. I dread it too.

On one hand, it's fun to look back at all of the New York wines I've tasted over the past 12 months. On the other, how can I possibly choose a handful of the "best" wines, especially when I wasn't tasting them with this post in mind? For 2009, I have already promised myself that I'll come up with a formal process for the LENNDEVOURS wines of the year, but that doesn't do me any good for 2008 now does it?

The easy way would just be to look at my published tasting notes and pick the wines with the highest scores, but what about the wines that, for whatever reason, didn't actually make it onto LENNDEVOURS? And, if I went that route, couldn't you just look them up on your own?

Instead, here are a few wines from Long Island and the Finger Lakes that stand out in my mind as I consider the hundreds of wines I tasted in 2008. Some are the highest rated ones, others make the list for other reasons:

Osprey's Dominion Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir

This local pinot made me do a doubletake when I tasted it blind in February. Aromas of wild mushrooms, raspberries, cherries and spice caught my attention. Then, that mushroomy earth character blended with cherry and crushed raspberry flavors, with a spinkling of cinnamon, clove and faint cocoa powder spice kept my it. A minerally note towards the end of a medium-long finish 'forced' me to drink this wine the rest of the evening. Definitely my favorite local pinot from 2008.

Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2005 Claletto Cabernet Sauvignon

I don't know a lot about Amarone and I've only tasted a few of them, so I can't speak to how this local Amarone-style cabernet (some of the grapes were dried) rates against the real thing, but this was the most unique wine I tasted this year. It features dense, warming aromas of speck-wrapped roasted figs, anise, blackberries and vanilla. Big and even meaty, it shows layers of black licorice, fig and blackberry flavors with sweet, plush super-ripe tannins. This was an unplanned wonder (the grapes actually dried on the vines), so we may never see it again. For that alone, it belongs on this list. 

Roanoke Vineyards 2004 Blend Two

This makes the list as the Long Island red I probably drank the most of this year. This blend of cabernet franc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon balances power and elegance expertly. Cherry and other red fruit aromas are layered with brown spices, salt-cured black olive and faintly floral notes. Then, a medium-bodied palate unfurls with clean, pure red cherry flavors with cinnamon, anise and nutmeg spice, a little vanilla and earthy flavors that remind me of dried fall leaves. 

Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Chenin Blanc

This is a wine that makes the list for a few reasons. First, it is one of the first Long Island wines bottled under Stelvin closure (Paumanok's 2007 whites were the first). Second, it's a great wine that continues to evolve and change every time I taste it. It started off with clean melon, grapefruit and mineral character, but as it spends more time in bottle, I'm tasting more tropical notes and honeyed fruit. Lastly it's also a wine that I've used on several occasions this year to convert Long Island wine naysayers. 

Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Argetsinger Vineyard Dry Riesling

I fell in love with Finger Lakes riesling all over again on our trip to Keuka Lake in April. This wine hadn't been released then, but it shows everything I love about those wines. Floral aromas mingle with dried apricots and fresh lime and wet stone on the bright, clean nose. The palate is light bodied and lithe, but still fills the mouth with intense minerality, bursting citrusy-lime flavors and an undercurrent of apricots. The acidity is almost electric in its liveliness and the finish is lengthy, lingering with lime and slate notes. I have a couple bottles left and would hold them long-term... if only they had natural cork closures. I guess I'll need to drink them sooner rather than later.

Raphael 2002 First Label Merlot

This list would be incomplete without a Long Island merlot and this one earns its spot by not only being a terrific example of local merlot, but also being a great value at $30. Dark, almost inky purple and extremely aromatic with blackberry and blueberry fruit aromas accented by leather and minty notes. Similar flavors carries over to the full, well-structured palate that has a lengthy, minerally-graphite finish. The tannins are ripe, but plenty apparent, bringing grip and pointing to terrific aging potential. I wish I had more of this in the cellar.

Quick Q&A with Tim Moore, Owner, Imagine Moore Winery

We're joined by Tim Moore of Imagine Moore Winery for this week's edition of Q&A. Imagine Moore is still a relatively new player in the Finger Lakes wine community, but there are plenty of things to like about the operation. They source fruit from sustainable vineyards and print their labels with organic inks, to name just a couple of those things.

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
It was in the mid 80’s and being from California and relatively young, it was a bottle of Korbel Sparkling Wine out of my best friend’s house for homecoming.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
I was studying in Austria, trying to figure out what I wanted to do in my life. I was sitting in Weinbau Familie Jaeger Heuriger (Weissenkirchen, Wachau Austria) drinking Riesling over looking the Danube and thought I’d finally found the thing I love- -winemaking made me feel the passion of life.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
Our 2006 Wisdom 100% Cabernet Franc – It is such a pleasure to make such a delicious wine during a cool growing season. My wife and I have traveled all over the world to many a wine region and we have come to appreciate the value all regions. I truly believe that consumers can get caught up with what everyone tells them should be delicious. When it comes to true appreciation, it starts in the vineyard and ends in the bottle. Making wine in our regions is driven throughout each growing season and no one winemaking approach will dictate what can make a delicious wine. That is both our challenge and our curse.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Finger Lakes wine community?
It surprised me how open and cooperative the entire industry is with one another. This industry is strong in its conviction, supportive of one another and always willing to lend what ever is needed to their neighbor. I’ve never experienced such a strong sense of community in a business atmosphere.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I have to admit that much beer goes into the production of great wines. I am partial to extracted IPAs, yet if you were to tie me down and say what other wines besides your own do you consume, well - - - I am currently partial to also a recently emerged American wine region – Oregon. Both my wife and I often drink many a Pinot Noir from various delicious producers of complex vineyard driven wines.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
I guess if you asked me what I would not order, not that I do not enjoy the diversion of flavors but I guess that a pairing of Fino Amontillado Sherry and shellfish is not my preference. I am a fruit driven winemaker and while I appreciate the complexity of said wines, they are not my first choice.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
Establishing a winery has been a life long dream of mine – I have had the fortunate experience to become friends with one of our greatest wine advocates and an incredible chef. During our first year of business Warfield’s Restaurant in Clifton Springs, NY hosted our first winemaker’s dinner. Since it was our first winemaker dinner, among the guests, some of our good friends came to celebrate the experience with us as Chef Eric Mueller paired a four course dinner emphasizing regional products from throughout NYS and four of our yet to be released wines. It was a special night for me personally.

Sherwood House Vineyards 2005 Sherwood Manor

Sherwood House Vineyards is a North Fork winery that flies under the radar. They have a tiny little tasting room -- the smallest I've ever seen -- nestled amongst their vineyards where they pour their Old World-styled wines. Their winemaker is Gilles Martin, formerly of Martha Clara Vineyards, who makes wine for a few other smaller local producers.

The focus at Sherwood House is set squarely on merlot and chardonnay, with cabernet franc and a couple different roses also in the portfolio. This wine, their Sherwood Manor ($45) red blend is the newest edition (with a blanc de blancs coming soon as well).

A blend of 40% merlot, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 25% petit verdot, it's a medium-dark crimson red in the glass with aromas of vanilla, lots of oak, dusty cocoa with hints of black cherry beneath.

Soft and somewhat broad on the palate, the flavors closely match the nose with light black cherry and blueberry flavors accented by significant oak, vanilla, milk chocolate and a sprinkle of black pepper. The tannins are ripe, but a bit more structure would be nice.

I would have liked a bit less oak here. It just dominates the fruit a bit too much.

Producer: Sherwood House Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%
Price: $45
Rating:   (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(About LENNDEVOURS' Ratings)

Happy Holidays from LENNDEVOURS

Sorry for the lack of posts over the past several days. We're in upstate New York visiting family for the Christmas holiday, having a good time as you can see above. Those are Jackson's first snowmen by the way.

A few notes from our trip thus far:

• I found a great beer shop just outside of Albany, and picked up several nice brews, including a well-done IPA from a local brewer that was new to me, Brown's Brewing Company in nearby Troy, NY
• We met our friends C and A at Provence for dinner Friday night for what was an up-and-down meal. Some dishes were delicious, others mediocre and the service was downright horrible. It was a reminder at just how important good service is to the dining experience. We did have a nice Oregon pinot from Siduri Winery, however.
• Yesterday, we took a trip to the Schenectady Greenmarket and picked some some delicious baked goods from Our Daily Bread in Chatham, NY and tasted from nice wines from Hudson-Chatham Winery in Ghent, NY. The 2007 cab franc and malbec are two wines to keep an eye on.
• In coming days I'll be posting reviews and tasting notes on several NY wines that we brought with us as well.

And, keep an eye out for my year-end post where I'll highlight a few of my favorite wines from 2008.

In the meantime, the whole LENNDEVOURS team hopes that you are having a great holiday season and are looking forward to 2009 as much as we are. Cheers!

Looking Back at 2008 in the Niagara Region

By Bryan Calandrelli, Niagara Escarpment Correspondent

When Lenn asked me to write about the five most exciting wines of 2008 from the Niagara region, I assumed that I could rattle them off in a heartbeat. But when I really sat down to put my list together, I realized something; it takes a lot these days to really get me going – at least when it comes to wine. In established wine regions, I usually reserve my excitement for estate-grown wines or hard-to-find varietals. In Niagara wine country, however, things are a bit different. For one, we’re still in the pioneer phase. Not only that, our vines are still young, with the demand for sweet wines still great.

In my opinion, the best local wines are either still in the barrel or waiting to be bottled. That said, there’s still a lot to be excited about in the Niagara region.

Arrowhead Spring Vineyards may be one of the youngest wineries to join the trail, but owner Duncan Ross is showing confidence these days as his handful of wines are already attracting some big-time attention. His 2005 Vidal Ice Wine is definitely the most complex ice wine I’ve ever tried. My experience with the wine was truly a transcendent one as I felt it was easy to lose track of time when it was on the palate. Add to that a 90-point WS score and $40 price tag and this wine is a must- have from the Niagara region.

Eveningside Vineyards has only one acre currently producing grapes, and the term “quality over quantity” comes to mind after only a few tastes of their estate selections. Their first estate red wine, a 2006 Cabernet Franc, shows blackberry, cherry and anise. It’s lively with a silky texture. What’s surprising is that the ripe fruit aromas are similar to what I get out of Long Island cabernet francs, but with a lighter body. What it doesn’t have in mouth filling tannins it makes up for in balance.

Schulze Vineyards & Winery may have some of the oldest vinifera vines in the Niagara region, but in any given year they will probably release the youngest red wines on the trail. If you have the patience to hold their reds after they release them, then wines like their 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon should reward you with ripe fruit flavors, smooth tannins and an old world style balance. The 2007s are still available and getting better every day.

Freedom Run Winery has 10 acres of vinifera planted with its first estate harvest in 2007. The 2005 Dry Riesling is a holdover from their first vintage release consisting of mostly purchased fruit. The riesling grapes were sourced from Chautauqua County and my early experiences were frankly not all that memorable. But by the middle of 2008, this wine had grown up and started showing sophistication and style. While never showing any of the floral bouquet qualities I get from many F.L. versions, this one brought notes of petrol and steel with its brisk fruit flavors.

Since the 2007 pinot noirs are just bottled or still in the barrel, much of the public hasn’t had the chance to taste them. Those who did were either lucky enough to stumble into Freedom Run when they had filled a lab flask for the tasting room or those that paid to taste 10 barrel samples from Warm Lake Estate. I am now convinced that there is certain terroir ideal for pinot noir in the region, and while I may not have been amped about pinot in the past, I am beyond thrilled that we have the chance to make Burgundian style red wines that show the unique terroir that I now call home.

Here’s to a great 2009! Cheers.

LENNDEVOURS in Mutineer Magazine's December Issue

I'm happy to report that this blog has been named one of the 12 "Blogs You Should Be Reading" in Mutineer Magazine's December/January issue. This is the third issue that editor Alan Kropf has put out and it's unlike any of the other wine magazines out there.

The magazine's tagline really says it all: "fine beverage...redefined"

There is also a brief story about Finger Lakes wine (and Shaw Vineyards) that features my top 5 reasons to be excited about the region.

Check out Mutineer Magazine and if you ever see it around, pick up a copy and I think you'll agree that it brings a new, irreverent voice to the sometimes-stuffy wine magazine rack.

When Common Sense and NY State Politics Collide: The Wine Bag Issue

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I do not intend to make a cabernet out of a concord here, but this is ridiculous. And it's a microcosm of the dysfunction that has rotted this state for years.

The owner of one of western New York's largest wine and liquor stores may be fined $10,000 by the New York State Liquor Authority because he had the audacity to sell wine gift bags to his customers who were buying, you know, wine.

Here's the short version: The law is written to enumerate the various things that a wine or liquor store is permitted to sell. Like most stores, Marketview Liquor in Henrietta, NY sells wine, wine glasses, wine stoppers, and corkscrews. That's all just fine. But because the law does not specifically say that such stores can sell wine gift bags, the sale of such decorative bags must be punished. It does not matter if the law inconveniences customers who had hoped to do their holiday wine shopping in one location -- they can go to the grocery store if they want a gift bag.

What's the reason for this? I spoke to several NY state senators today who told me that the law was written long before stores were selling gift bags. Now, according to Senator Joe Robach (R-Rochester), the SLA is getting too aggressive in going after the vicious offenders of the gift bag rule. Robach would like to see the Authority issue warnings while reconsidering the law's merits or, as the case may be, demerits.

But several state lawmakers asked me not to use their name when they explained that they believe this whole thing is about liquor stores vs. grocery stores. They said that lawmakers knew they had upset grocery stores by preventing wine sales on their premises, so they disallowed the sale of some wine accessories in liquor stores (wine-themed magnets is another. Seriously.)

The bottom line is, well, the bottom line: no one seemed to think the SLA would enforce these rules, but the state needs cash. And here's what burns Mike Palmeri, who owns Marketview Liquor: According to documents he showed me today, the SLA sent inspectors in to his store back in June. Mike had no idea (and also says he had no idea he was not permitted to sell wine gift bags). But instead of informing Mike that he was being investigated, they kept the case quiet, allowing Palmeri to place an order of $25,000 worth of gift bags, most of which he expected to sell around Christmas. The SLA whacked him the first week of December -- so he's out the fine and his inventory costs.

"I guess I should have known the law," he told me. "I guess I should not have assumed I could sell these little gift bags for a buck or two apiece. It's my responsibility to know that. But now I'm going to do everything I can to get this law changed."

I asked Michael Smith of the SLA to help me understand why the law prohibits selling wine gift bags in wine stores, and he replied that it's up to SLA to enforce the laws -- any other questions should go to the legislature.

In other words, it might make not a shred of sense, but the state is coming after your store if you dare to sell pretty little wine gift bags. Just because a law is bad for customers and for business does not mean it's bad for lawmakers.

Jason's Finger Lakes Wines of 2008

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Lenn asked me to write a "wines of the year" post, but as enthusiastic as I am about Finger Lakes wines, I feel ill-equipped to name a "wine of the year" since the joyous rigors of life keep me from driving around the Finger Lakes as much as I'd like. Through events and site visits, I probably tasted four dozen rieslings this year and sampled the spectrum of varietal selections at about 20 wineries.

That's a lot of tasting, but there are a lot of wineries in the Finger Lakes region (at least 115 at this point). While a few of these wineries aren't into vinifera to any great extent, there are still quite a few that I feel I have overlooked despite the fact that they are producing serious wines.

So, this post is not really about wines of the year as it is a reflection on those wines that seem to stick out the most in my mind for one reason or another. I guarantee I'm missing some great wines, but if you are looking to start with a few interesting picks I hope that these suggestions help.

If any readers want to pipe in with a suggestion or two of their own, then please feel free to comment.

I'll start with riesling. While 2007 was a good year for riesling, I've explained previously that I feel that the complexity and balance of these wines is simply not as overwhelming as the steely 2006 vintage. Overall, I preferred the semi-dry versions to the dry, the former displaying a playful offset of sweetness with the blunt ripeness of the fruit.

One exception to this observation was the very dry 2007 Argetsinger Riesling from Ravines Wine Cellars. A subtle and refined wine created from grapes selected from a single-source vineyard, this is the type of wine that does a little something different every time it's tried. It's not a showstopper in terms of a strong nose or tastes, but its smooth minerality interacts so well with the citrus notes that the resulting flavor is extremely memorable. I could not get enough of this wine.

The other riesling that really sticks out in my mind is the 2007 Semi-dry Riesling from Anthony Road Wine Company. I had an opportunity to taste this wine while it was still in tank, and even in its youth it was a tremendous achievement. The fruit flavors are fully in balance with the sweetness and acidity, creating a real zinger of pineapple and citrus backed with structure. This is a fun riesling.

Gewürtztraminer is beginning to build some much-deserved notoriety in the Finger Lakes. I had the pleasure of tasting several, but the one that demonstrated an amazing complement of flavors was the 2007 Gewürtztraminer from Sheldrake Point. This wine plays with the senses, revealing layers of floral notes, deep spice, and honeyed apples. While many Gewürztraminers in the Finger Lakes are of a fleeting quality as winemakers learn more about this grape, this wine is an example of a very solid result.

One more white that I think deserves attention that made a big impression on my 2008 wine drinking experience. Dr. Frank's 2006 Rkatsiteli. It was a constant standout in social engagements at which I shared this wine with others. No matter who I served this wine to, the reactions were filled with praise for the unique taste and extreme curiosity about the name and origin of the grape. By the end of the year I wished I'd purchased more, but I'm happy that it is still available. Rkatsiteli is a smooth, satisfying, and structured white that I think has a bright future in the Finger Lakes.

By the middle of 2008, most wineries had released nearly all of their reds from the 2006 vintage and some from the 2007. 2006 was a relative disappointment for reds after the tremendous 2005 vintage, with of course some exceptions made by winemakers who can really produce quality reds in mediocre years. I have not tasted any released 2007 reds, although the few I've had from barrel or tank are really showing potential.

So, what red in released in 2008 made the biggest impression on me? It was not a wine from 2007 or 2006, but in fact a wine from the 2003 vintage, made from a grape that is not often associated with quality in the Finger Lakes.

Shaw Vineyard's 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was released only this year, in adherence to winemaker Steve Shaw's philosophy that Finger Lakes reds should age for several years much like a Bordeaux. I tasted this wine with few expectations since a straight bottling for cabernet sauvignon is rare in the Finger Lakes.

Perhaps this wine was at its peak maturity when I tasted it. If so, its peak maturity was something to behold. Cherry and black currant dominated the palate, with hints of tobacco and wood. These flavor alone, however, did not separate this wine from the pack. What I found most compelling was the finish, which lingered and lingered and lingered, unlike nearly any Finger Lakes red I've had in the past.

Simply put, Finger Lakes reds don't often finish like that, and yet the wine had all the smooth, cool-climate characteristics of other quality Finger Lakes reds. That 2003 was not particular great year for ripening fruit says a lot about the prospect of holding red wines longer for release.

Well, there's the lot of 'em. While I can't emphasize enough my disclaimer that these wines stuck out in a sort of random fashion during my own travels, probably at the same time as I was missing or overlooking other great wines, I'll stand by these few. You may not place them at the very top of your own list, but I think they all have some great and/or interesting qualities that lead to enjoyment.

Quick Q&A with Frank Scarola, Owner, Scarola Vineyards

For this week's holiday edition of the Q&A, we pose our questions to Frank Scarola of Scarola Vineyards, a still-new producer that definitely flies under the radar. The wines are made at Wolffer Estate under the watchful eye of Roman Roth, but the Scarola family has plans for a tasting room on the North Fork, hopefully soon. As with many new producers, they are playing the waiting game with the New York State Liquor Authority. In the meantime, the wines are available directly from the Scarola and at a few shops in the tri-state area.

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
It was in the summer of 1975 in Bari, Italy. I was living with my aunt and uncle and they served wine every day for lunch and dinner. Serving soda was considered a luxury at that time, not to mention a mismatch to their fabulous food. So it wasn’t a single bottle that I remember but more of a concentrated exposure to the wonderful world of wine. Latter on, when I got older, I came to understand that I was drinking blends of Moscato and Malvasia Nera.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
From an employment perspective the technology field was hit hard in the years 2001-2002 soon after the Y2K bug fixes were completed. I had been in the technology field for about 25 years at that time and was simply trying to determine what to do for the second half of my life. After learning about many new Long Island winery start-ups I was determined to give it a try on my own. If you love what you do -- you don’t have to work a day in your life.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
Of course I like all my wines but I am especially fond of the 2004 Masseria Merlot. There’s been a noticeable transformation over the last year or so. The 2004 Merlot is blended with 17% Cabernet Franc and has a long -- somewhat peppery finish. The finish of a wine is important to me. Think of a fireworks finale or the encore of your favorite concert. It’s what you remember most and take away with you.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Long Island wine community?
The biggest surprise has been the amount of support from the LI wine community. From Louisa Hargrave to the newest winery start-up to the LI Wine Council you feel as if you are part of team. Everyone wants each other to share in the success and promotion of the Long Island wine industry.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
There’s nothing better than a nice cold beer after a hard day’s work. As for wine, my favorite is Amarone – a rich, dry red Italian wine with great body. It’s made from grapes that have been dried on racks.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
I don’t enjoy chocolate, or any sweets for that matter, with desert wine. Individually they need to stand on their own. I’ll have one or the other but never both together. I find the flavors to be competing as opposed to complementing each other.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
Here’s my ultimate wine drinking scenario. Picture yourself at round wooded table so that you can see and here everyone. You’re with 5 of your favorite people. No more than that because then it gets complicated. There are 5 glasses of different wines in front of each person. In the middle of the table you see an assortment of appetizers, anti-pasta, and small plates. Behind you are 2 servers - one to serve the wine and the other to replenish the food. The final blend is enjoyable boisterous conversation as you smell and feel the roaring fire next to you.

Will Governor Paterson's Budget Mean the End of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation?

By Lenn Thompson, Founder and Editor

It's not news to anyone in New York that the state government is running under a serious deficit. It's all over the news and even before it was being talked about so much, many knew and feared that this day would come. Now, Governor Paterson is trying to rectify the situation with his proposed 2009 budget. Economic times are tough, seemingly, every where, with everybody.

This isn't a political or economic blog, so I'm not going to write today about the entire budget and the decisions Governor Paterson has made. But there are a couple related to the New York wine industry that I do feel at least somewhat qualified to discuss.

Briefly, Paterson is proposing an increase in the per gallon excise tax from nearly 19 cents to 51 cents, a pretty hefty hike. The governor's 2009-10 budget plan also calls for elimination of New York Wine and Grape Foundation (NYWGF)  funding. The NYWGF gets $1 million from the executive budget and $1.8 million from the Legislature. It matches the executive grant with private fund raising, for a total budget of $3.8.

So what would those changes mean if they are implemented? (Remember that this is a proposed budget and that nothing is finalized.)

This topic is like the cliched onion, there are many layers and depending on how many layers you peel, you may or may not cry.

I emailed with Jim Trezise, the president of the NYWGF, last week to learn more about what he thinks the impact might be. Apparently, they'll be able to support and fund any ongoing projects through the end of their current fiscal year, March 31, but that beyond that date, they'll have to cut "everything" including roughly $1 million of research by Cornell and the Cooperative Extension each year, the wine trail and regional branding programs, the New York City initiatives, the public television series, and "everything else."

Saying it even more bluntly, he told me "Our programs are based on the availability of matching funds from the State, plus in some years additional funding for more programs, so the end of state funding would mean the end of the programs."

Again, I'm no economist, but it's hard to understand how these cuts make any sense for the state. An independently run study in 2005 showed that the New York wine industry generated $3.4 billion for the state's economy. Given that, and the proposed increase in the excise tax, the less than $3 million the NYWGF usually gets doesn't seem like much. As they say, you need to spend money to make money, and that seems like a pretty good investment to me. It's an especially good investment when you consider that wine is one of the only agricultural industries in the state still growing. In that sense, it just seems silly.

But, as I talked with several winery owners and winemakers across the state over the last few days, I found it interesting just how mixed the reaction is to the possible elimination of the NYWGF.

Several winery owners in the Finger Lakes in particular seem worried that without the foundation driving promotions, they are going to lose customers, sell less wine and have tougher economic times. I'm not so sure that it's possible to prove (or disprove) that one has to do with the other.It's not a simple "if, then" scenario.

The owners I spoke to point to increased tasting room visitors over the past several years as an example of the NYWGF's importance in the region. Do we know for sure that the NYWGF is directly responsible for the increased food traffic? Is it possible that increased interest in wine across the country has an impact? I'm not downplaying or discounting the work the NYWGF does, but is there any hard evidence to support the contention that without the foundation, New York wineries are going to fail?

Charles Massoud, co-owner of Paumanok Vineyards here on the North Fork may have said it best last week "The coming year is going to be challenging no matter what business we are talking about. And if the industry should experience any difficulty will it blame it on such a possible fate for these organizations or will we blame it on the economy?"

Echoing the comments of many, Ted Marks, owner of Atwater Estate on Seneca Lake called the foundation "the main promotional source for our industry" but I'm left wondering if this is the right model to begin with.  Should individual wineries depends heavily on an organization like this to promote themselves? I don't think so, and I commend owners like Art Hunt of Hunt Country Vineyards who told me that they are "making plans to be out on the road significantly more than in past years, visiting accounts and working with our distributor reps. We are planning to do more to bring consumers back." Regardless of what happens with the NYWGF, other wineries will need to do the same.

Massoud thinks that "For many wineries that have distanced themselves as to their sales and marketing, the effects may not be noticed. There are probably some wineries that used such organizations as a crutch, and therefore they may now have an opportunity to stand up and move forward. Perhaps we should go it alone for a while to discover what importance these organizations may really have."

Some have also suggested that this proposed budget cut would mean the end of some wineries. I have to ask again, is it because the NYWGF won't be around or is it just the economy and the tight credit situation? I'd argue that we're going to see some wineries go under regardless. Just like in every other industry, small business owners are struggling to stay afloat right now.

Surprisingly few that I spoke to mentioned what might be the biggest problem with the proposed budget cuts -- the loss of research dollars. That, to me anyway, is the bigger long-term issue. Without the research being done at Cornell and the Cooperative Extension, the industry might stagnate a bit. Research is important, even if it doesn't directly lead to dollars. And let's not forget about all of the jobs that could be lost, at the research organizations and also at the state's individual wine trails, which get some of their funding from the NYWGF. There are people involved here as well, let's not forget that side of this.

From an outsider's perspective, I think this might be a wake-up call, both for the foundation and for its membder wineries. The NYWGF is far from perfect and there's been a dire lack of innovation in its programs -- at least in the marketing and promotions arena.

I think that the NYWGF will find a way to survive this. Trezise is very good at lobbying the folks in Albany and I think he'll be able to secure at least some level of funding to keep the foundation alive. This is also an opportunity for the foundation to become much less reliant on state funding going forward. There apparently had been talk of a voluntary increase in the excise tax that would fund programs. It's hard to know if wineries will want to do that on top of the current proposed increase, but that would be one way to move towards becoming self-sufficient. Or, it's possible that Trezise will decide to focus on the International Riesling Foundation and let the NYWGF fade away. Only he can speak to his plans.

This is also an opportunity for the NYWGF (as well as member wineries) to re-think how they operate. To survive in this tight economy, you simply can't rely on the same old programs. Innovation and the leveraging of new technology is a must. This might force everyone in the industry to improve how they promote and market themselves. In that sense, a little short-term pain might lead to better days in the long run.

This is a complex situation and I'm sure some of what I've said here will elicit some strong emotions and feedback.

POSTPONED: Bedell Cellars Library Tasting

I just heard news that I have been expecting all day -- the library tasting at Bedell Cellars that I was supposed to attend tonight has been postponed because of the snow storm hitting Long Island.

Instead of tonight, it will take place on Friday, February 27. If any other details change, I'll make sure to post about them.

Drink Local Beer. It's That Simple.

By Donavan Hall, Beer Columnist

Lenn asked me to write a year-end post and I've been mulling over what you might be interested in hearing about.  I could give you a list of all the great locally brewed, Long Island beers that I've tasted this year. I could tell you which ones were my favorites, but in the end such lists and recommendations reflect a personal taste. They might prompt you to try something new, but ultimately you'll have to decide for yourself what you like. So, instead, I'd like to tell you about what I've been thinking about this past year.

I've been covering the Long Island beer scene for three years now and I'm happy to report that the state of craft beer is still improving; however, the landscape is changing. With Southampton's deal with Pabst for nation-wide distribution we suppose we are witnessing the success of one of our own. After all, our culture typically views growth and expansion as a good thing. On the other hand when one of our local breweries turns into a national brand, we risk losing something that it truly Long Island as the brewery reshapes itself to compete in the national market. Good or bad? Well, that's a question that I've been pressing craft beer drinkers to ponder over on The Beer Hall.

Big brewers do make excellent beer. But the question that those of us in the "craft" world have to confront is just how compatible "craft" is with "big". There's a camp that says is all about the beer and how it tastes.  There's another camp that says, no is not just taste, its also about how the beer is made and under what conditions. Who's right? The answer depends a lot on whether you think your actions (such as your choice of beer to drink) has any connection with shaping the sort of world you want to live in.

Big questions for something that is supposed to be refreshing and relaxing. But these are precisely the things we should be thinking about.

So I've been turning beer drinking into a social, cultural and political philosophy that is firmly rooted in a view of the world that I think makes a lot of sense. The fundamental principle of this philosophy of drinking is that local is better. This principle isn't obvious to everyone.

Unfortunately, if I tried to articulate it here, Lenn would probably get annoyed by the ten thousand word post that would result. (Editors note: No I wouldn't. Bring it on Donavan)

I've started doing three things this year that I think could go along way to developing Long Island's craft beer culture. First, I drink craft beer as close to home as possible. I go to my local pub and pay a little extra for beer because it's important to have locally run businesses that support local brewers and they can't keep their doors open if we don't show up. Second, when I go to my local pub, my first beer is always a locally brewed beer. Show the pub owner that there is support for locally brewed beer by actually drinking it. If you must have the lastest IPA from the West Coast, save it for your second pint. Third, I brew my own beer and primarily drink that when I'm drinking at home. Believe it or not, brewing at home is the one act that really drives craft beer culture. You might think it would eat into local craft brew sales, but what it does is make the local brewing scene stronger. Good homebrewers are the next generation of local commercial brewers.

If you believe the news, we have some dark economic times ahead. Premium products like craft beer might be hit hard. We've already seen a price jump as a result of the "hops shortage." Other factors are sure to drive the price up even further. With the price of a craft pint now up to $7 in many places on the Island, people might be tempted to choose a industrial macro alternative at $5 pint. However, if we shell out the extra bucks for a locally brewed beer, we will be creating jobs and wealth right here on Long Island where it will do us the most good. 

So next time you head out for a craft beer at your local pub, make it a locally brewed beer.

2008 Harvest Report: Finger Lakes

By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent

This fall, I was given the opportunity to pack up my cameras and notebook to get out to some of the wineries here in the Finger Lakes to compile a report on the 2008 Harvest for Finger Lakes Wine Country Tourism Marketing Association.

I wish it had been possible for me to get out to all of the wineries in the region in person, and want to thank those who submitted their photos for our Flickr photostream. The report was compiled and observations made during the height of harvest season and the following are direct quotes from the winery principals and winemakers. Lenn asked that we gather even more recent reports for this post.

Frederick Frank, President of Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars

"2008 was an exciting harvest with excellent quality due to the sunny warm Fall days. Some vineyards elected to harvest early due to disease pressure but we were able to let our grapes ripen into late October and early November to take advantage of the excellent Fall weather. Conditions were ideal for the formation of botrytis (noble rot) on some of our Riesling. We plan to release several late harvest Riesling dessert wines from 2008 that will be of the quality of a Trockenbeerenauslese. I would agree with the Wine Spectator’s A rating for the 2008 vintage in the Finger Lakes."

Josh Wig, Manager at Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars

"As our 2008 harvest draws to a close, the wines here at Lamoreaux Landing are looking good across the board. We are very proud to grow all of our own fruit, as the quality of our wines are a direct result of our meticulous viticultural practices. Every year provides us with its own set of unique wine-growing challenges, and 2008 did not disappoint.

Acids for Chardonnay and Riesling were in our nominal range, and this should result in wines with a strong, food-friendly acid backbone. Gerwurztraminer and Muscat had characteristically low acids and high pH with strong varietal characteristics through fermentation and now in tank. Overall, varietal flavors in the new developing wines are intense. As we brought in more grapes this year than ever before, we have blending options to make wines of high quality, distinction and intensity. This is particularly true with our Riesling, which will be bottled in a few months.

As for our reds, early sun exposure on the fruit was achieved by implementing a vertically split trellis system in our most vigorous sites. Our Cabernet Franc benefited the most from this manipulation, and is coming through malolactic fermentation in good order. Our Merlot seems exceptional at this point, and it should be another classic year for Pinot Noir. We look forward to blending and bottling these red wines in 2010."

Chris Stamp, Owner and Winemaker of Lakewood Vineyards

"In regards to the 2008 harvest, the last month and a half was very favorable, long and frost free, with cool temps and moderate to light rain fall which resulted in slow steady ripening, which is ideal. I don't think any of us are surprised at how nicely the whites are showing. They are excellent with very expressive fruit, and excellent balance. My favorites are a toss up between the Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and the Pinot Gris, with the edge going, perhaps, to the Gewurzts.

To me, the big surprise is how nicely the reds are developing. Although I find reds a lot harder to evaluate this early, I didn't expect the level of structure or the amount of fruit I am seeing this early on. Most of the reds are still going through malolactic fermentation. When this fermentation is complete, the picture will be a whole lot clearer, but I am very optimistic. My current favorite is the Lemberger, which makes up the lion’s share of our 'Crystallus' blend."

Peter Becraft, Assistant Winemaker at Anthony Road Wine Company

"The Rieslings are coming along quite nicely so far. There will be some super delicious '08 Rieslings coming from the Finger Lakes next year. The Tierce blending sessions have ended and there is some major excitement from all parties involved. Johannes and I are pretty excited about our '08 Gewurz as well. We had a lot of botrytis this year and we are privileged to have 2 TBA's (Riesling and Vignoles) and 2 BA's (Riesling and Pinot Gris) in stainless barrels. These wines will be our major stand outs from 2008 for sure. They will be enjoyed for many years. All in all we are very pleased with what came from the '08 vintage. No one got hurt and all the wines will be "good enough to drink" as we like to say."

Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards Winemaker Tim Benedict on their Ice Wine Harvest

"A dozen or so of the Hazlitt faithful gathered in the pre-dawn hours of November 22nd at the block affectionately known as the Pee Wee Vineyard. Their task was to collect the berries that had hung for weeks on this hillside awaiting right moment and temperature.

Several freezes had led up to this day and the berries had turned from greenish gold to milky brown, with flavors emerging of honey and apricot. This was what Winemaker Tim Benedict was looking for, an indication that these grapes were ready for that one last freeze, qualifying them for Ice Wine. The temperature was 17 degrees F at 4:30 am and the fruit had the consistency of sorbet when popped into the mouth.

The weather was clear with no wind, and the crew did their deed bolstered with Irish coffee, an on site chef cooking breakfast on a grill, and hobo fires in wine barrels to thaw the digits. A good time was had by all and they emerged from the vineyard with a ton and a half of frozen grapes, which were quickly turned into 120 gallons of nectar that measured 38 degrees brix and 2.9 pH. At this writing on December 15, the fermentation is around one half complete, and everyone at Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards is very excited about their first Ice Wine."

Imagine Moore Winery 2007 "Joy" Dry Riesling

Imagine Moore Winery located in Naples, NY southwest of Canandaigua Lake, is a relative newcomer to the Finger Lakes Wine world. There's something undeniably charming about the operation.

Co-owners Tim and Diane Moore are dedicated to sustainability and only buy fruit from sustainably managed vineyards throughout the Finger Lakes. Their labels, which are painted onto the bottles, are done with organic ink. And those labels, in addition to carrying the grape names, also feature names like Love, Harmony and Peace. There's got to be some "hippy" in the Moore's, no?

I tasted a handful of their wines from the 2006 and 2007 vintages and the Imagine Moore Winery 2007 "Joy" Dry Riesling ($15) stood out as the best. The nose is a bit austere, but vigorous swirling coaxes out nice peach, lemon and lemon zest aromas.

The palate is similarly citrusy with stone fruit taking a back seat and just a little bit of wet stone on a medium finish. Feathery light in terms of body, this dry riesling is almost bone dry and features subtle, but sufficient acidity. It's a refreshing wine, if a bit straight forward.

Producer: Imagine Moore Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $15
Rating:   (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(About LENNDEVOURS' Ratings)

How Tierce Riesling Gets Made: Inside the Winemaker's Lab

Winemaker Johannes Reinhardt at the Tierce blending session

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
All photos by Morgan Dawson

"These are the most precocious aromatics I've ever seen at this point in a wine's development," Peter Bell said, surveying more than 40 glasses containing Riesling blends from the 2008 vintage. "I mean, it's December. This is remarkable. Wine does what it wants to do, and the aromatics could drop a cliff. But I doubt it. This is just remarkable."

 

This is not propaganda. Some winemakers play up the virtues of each vintage. They have to answer to accountants, after all. But Fox Run Vineyards winemaker Peter Bell's assessment came in the privacy of the 2008 Tierce riesling blending session. He made these comments to fellow winemakers Dave Whiting of Red Newt Cellars and Johannes Reinhardt of Anthony Road Wine Company, not to the press or potential customers.

 

Tierce is entering its fifth vintage in the Finger Lakes. Conceived by Reinhardt, Tierce combines the winemaking talents and best riesling lots from three Seneca Lake wineries. The only exception came in 2007 when the winemakers agreed that the hot, draught-stressed vintage offered a rare opportunity to create a red wine together. Tierce Red, or Tierce 2007, is still in barrel and won't see the public until at least next summer.

 

Last week they were joined by their assistant winemakers: Tricia Renshaw (Fox Run), Brandon Seager (Red Newt) and Peter Becraft (Anthony Road). The six of them spent hours blending and tasting and re-blending and tasting, searching for the right balance for Tierce 2008 Riesling.

 

And what were they searching for? "A wine that is linear, intense, and looooong," Bell explained.

 

In other words, they were searching for the kind of dry riesling that has come to define the very best that Finger Lakes winemakers can offer. It is not meant to mimic the great Rieslings of Mosel or Alsace; it is meant to be ripping and crisp, electric but balanced, with less of the lush edges found in Europe's best of the aromatic whites. Each winemaking team brought four lots of riesling with which to start, and after a day spent tasting and debating they pared the blending components down to six.

 

 Reconvening a week later with fresh energy and focus, each winemaker created a new blend, privately choosing different percentages from the various remaining lots. Some of the lots provided mouth-filling fruit; others offered the crackling acidity that evolves in the best cool-climate regions. Each new blend was scored and discussed, with some scrapped instantly and others highlighted as base components for yet new trials.

When Whiting wanted to convince his colleagues to keep one lot in play, he urged them, "Think of this one as our child. It's time to find out how our child plays with others." As the hours passed the winemakers spit out metaphors like jacks from a destemmer; they were looking for creative ways to sway the room.

 

Finally, with five new blends on the table, an eruption rocked the lab and sent tremors through the massive steel tanks standing only a few feet outside. Five of the six winemakers awarded the top score possible to one of the blends -- it was nearly unanimous and instantly clear that Tierce 2008 had been born.

Through the din of the cheers and clapping, Reinhardt pounded a celebratory fist on the lab table. The sound of exploding wine glasses immediately silenced the room, but only for a moment before laughter covered Reinhardt's embarrassed grin.

 

"We've got a new baby," he said proudly. "You just saw the birth of the new Tierce."

 

Reinhardt, Bell and Whiting expect that they'll keep the same price -- $30, one of the most expensive in the appellation. They'll deliver their baby to the public in mid-2009 and wine drinkers will have a chance to determine if the many hours and painstaking blending trials produced a